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About 79 nights a year below freezing, when uninsulated crawlspace lines give out

The oldest blocks in town run plumbing decades older than the newer builds toward Prospect Park

First frost typically lands around November 11

It depends on the job and how bad the problem is. That is why the first step is a phone call. Describe the problem and get your free estimate on the phone, with upfront pricing.

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That pattern almost always means the sillcock split inside the wall during a freeze and only leaks while the tap is open. The pipe is intact enough to hold pressure but not enough to hold it under flow. Shut the water to that line and stop using the tap until it's replaced.

Roots are more of a problem for drain and sewer piping than for a pressurised supply line, since supply pipe is sealed. Roots can still shift shallow piping over time. If an outdoor line moves enough, the joint at the wall is where it gives.

It can, and the usual cause is a hose left attached. The frost-free design relies on water draining back out of the barrel after each use, and a connected hose blocks that drain. Once the trapped water freezes, the split happens deep in the wall where the pipe is warm enough to leak into the framing.

Anything attached to the tap keeps the barrel from draining, and that includes splitters, timers and quick-connect fittings. They hold a small volume of water right at the point that freezes hardest. Taking them off in autumn is the whole preventative measure.

Yes, though the practical question is where the new branch would run and whether it can be drained. A line crossing an unheated space needs its own shutoff and a way to empty. On older homes near Swarthmore that often means tying into a different part of the supply than you'd expect.